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Crampons, Alat Pendakian Di Salju, Open Trip Everest
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Crampons, Alat Pendakian Di Salju, Open Trip Everest
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Rigid step-in crampons used for vertical ice climbing
A crampon is a traction device that is attached to footwear to improve mobility on snow and ice during ice climbing.[1] Not only are crampons used during ice climbing, but they are also used for secure travel on snow and ice, such as crossing glaciers, snowfields and icefields,
ascending snow slopes, and scaling ice-covered rock. There are three
main attachment systems for footwear: step-in, hybrid, and strap
bindings. The first two require boots with welts,
as a tension lever attaches the crampon to the heel. The last type
(strap bindings) are more versatile and can adapt to virtually any boot
or shoe, but often do not fit as precisely as the other two types.[2]
Oscar Eckenstein
designed the first 10-point crampon in 1908, dramatically reducing the
need for step cutting. This design was then made commercially available
by the Italian Henry Grivel.
Contents
Characteristics
Yellow/grey plastic "anti-balling" plates prevent snow from building up
Walking crampons
Materials
Crampons are made of steel alloy, light weight aluminium, or a combination of the two. Lighter weight crampons are popular for alpine ski touring where demands are generally lower and light weight a premium.
Points
Early
10-point crampons lacked forward angled spikes and thus required step
cutting on steep terrain. In the 1930s two additional forward-slanting
points were added, making them exceptional for mountaineering and glacier travel and beginning a revolution in front pointing.
There is currently a range of models, including specialized crampons
with as many as 14 points and models with single points for ice
climbing.
Attachment
Crampons
are fastened to footwear by means of a binding system. Improved
attachment systems - such as a cam action "step-in" system similar to a
ski binding and particularly well adapted to plastic technical
mountaineering boots - have widely increased crampons use. Crampons also
use a full "strap-in" system and a "hybrid" binding that features a toe
strap at the front and a heel lever at the back.[3]
Anti-balling
To
prevent snow from balling up under crampons, especially in temperatures
around freezing, most models can be fitted with plastic or rubber
"anti-balling" systems to reduce build-up. Rubber models use flexion to
repel snow while plastic anti-balling plates employ a hydrophobic surface to prevent adhesion.
Grades
Crampons are graded C1, C2 and C3 relative to their flexibility and general compatibility with different styles of boots.[4] No crampons are suitable for B0 boots (flexible walking boots).
| Use | B0 boot (flexible) | B1 boot (semi stiff) | B2 boot (fully stiff) | B3 boot (technical climbing boot) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| C1 crampon | relatively flexible walking crampon | No | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| C2 crampon | versatile crampon for both walking and mountaineering | No | No | Yes | Yes |
| C3 crampon | technical mountaineering crampon | No | No | No | Yes |
Ski crampons
Specialized "ski crampons" are employed in ski mountaineering on hard snow and ice. Far more common in the Alps than in the United States, these ski crampons are known by their European names: Harscheisen (German), couteaux (French) and coltelli (Italian)[citation needed], literally French and Italian for "knives" in those languages.
See also
References
External links
 |
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Crampons. |
- Crampon Review from Climbing Magazine, No. 226, December 2003.
- Caltech Alpine Club's guide to crampons at the Wayback Machine (archived March 30, 2012)
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